Exploring Langa, Cape Town’s Oldest Township

Langa offers a unique glimpse into the history of South Africa. Located just a 10-minute drive from Cape Town International Airport, Langa, meaning “sun” in isiXhosa, is the oldest township in the city. Developed in 1923 as a result of the Urban Areas Act (which enforced racial segregation in land ownership), it was formally established in 1927. It was named after the Amahlubi chief, King Langalibalele, a renowned rainmaker who in 1873 was imprisoned on Robben Island for rebelling against the Natal government.
Townships are a bitter reminder of the Apartheid era. They were strategically placed on the edges of cities to house non-white workers who were employed in the city but were not permitted to live in the same areas as their white employers. These townships starkly contrast with the leafy suburbs, representing two worlds apart. Langa served as a segregated living area for the “non-white” working in Cape Town.

Our exploration begins with Thami, a local resident and our enthusiastic guide. Thami welcomes us warmly and invites us to embark on a journey through Langa’s past and present. Our first stop is the Langa Dom Pass Museum, a seemingly ordinary house from the outside. Stepping inside, we’re transported back in time through historical documents and exhibits.

Unveiling the Past

Thami, a captivating storyteller, sheds light on Langa’s role in South Africa’s history. He dispels misconceptions and reveals the truth about Apartheid’s beginnings in this very building. Here, Black South Africans were issued permits controlling their movement and residence. We learn that Langa’s experience of Apartheid differed from other regions, with men housed in dormitories within barracks with very rigid restrictions. Langa was where many Apartheid policies were first implemented.

The old Pass Office and Court serve as a reminder of Apartheid’s oppressive regime. Here, Black workers were compelled to present their “Dompas” identity books or face trials for defying the pass laws. The museum’s “Whites Only” benches serve as a painful reminder of the era’s segregation. A compelling collection of photographs and original signed documents vividly depict life in Cape Town’s oldest township during Apartheid.

Langa played a pivotal role in the struggle against Apartheid. In 1960, one of its largest marches, involving nearly 50,000 people, protested the discriminatory pass laws. This act of defiance occurred in conjunction with the infamous Sharpeville Massacre. The walls of the museum are covered with the timeline of the events that took place, and photographs of the heroes that led the fight towards freedom.

Our journey continues beyond the museum walls. The lively streets of Langa showcase the township’s dynamic character. We explore the local craft market, a colourful display of artistic talent and entrepreneurial spirit. Next, we pass by the community center, a vital resource for residents. Langa’s creative energy is further evident at a local cafe and art gallery. Its founders seek not only to showcase the works of local and great artists, but also to position Langa as an art destination. Inside the gallery, 16 on Lerotholi, the walls are adorned with pieces by well-known artists which celebrate the rich and diverse cultural heritage of African people.

Though South Africa has gone a long way in healing the scars inflicted by the Apartheid, struggles still remain in many parts of the country. In recent years, the South African government has made a lot of efforts to rebuild Langa by taking down the shacks and developing new residential buildings, schools, clinics, sport facilities and community centres.

Langa is more than just pessimistic statistics about crimes, poverty or unemployment rates. It’s a community rooted in strong Xhosa traditions that celebrate the concept of Ubuntu (humanity). It’s a community that works hard to uplift the livelihood of its residents, with new businesses booming, community initiatives thriving, an art scene budding.

Langa is home to popular icons, such as the pop superstar Brenda Fassie,  the jazz musician Victor Ntoni, the cricketer Temba Bavuma, the highly skilled hockey player Zenani Kraai who has made his Olympic debut for South Africa in Paris, the former Orlando Pirates player Thabo Mngomeni,  the veteran actress Thoko Ntshinga, the self-taught surgeon Hamilton Nake who worked alongside Dr. Christiaan Barnard when he performed the first human heart transplant in 1967, and more.

A visit to Langa is more than just a historical tour; it’s an opportunity to connect with the warmth and resilience of its people. As we delve deeper into the township’s rich tapestry, we discover a community that has not only endured hardship but thrived in its wake.